IT’S not often these days you claim to have made a real find on the food front. Pubs in particular have fallen victim to gastro-fication, with huge chains sweeping in and turning once pleasant retreats into a pastiche of their former glory, complete with faux Toby jugs and horse brasses.

But on a visit to the Olde Dog in Billericay Road, Herongate, the husband-to-be and I found what might be one of the few remaining old school country pubs. And boy, was it a gem of a discovery, not least when the husband-to-be’s eyes lit up at the range of real ales on offer.

From the moment we entered, we were welcomed with the type of hospitality long forgotten in these “have a nice day” times.

There were no menus, just a series of chalk boards which adorn the walls, extolling the virtues of such home-cooked traditional pub favourites as steak, ale and kidney pie, sausage casserole and mash, and local smoked ham, egg and chips.

Feeling greedy, we plumped for starters. I had a field mushroom stuffed with Boursin cheese and caramelised onion and the husband-to-be had chicken liver parfait.

The latter would have suited perfectly as a lunchtime snack as two thick slices of the pate came with three doorsteps of fresh hot toast and a generous portion of onion marmalade.

The pate was smooth, rich and delicious, and I suffered plate envy from across the table almost immediately.

My choice while tasty, was a little lack-lustre in relation to its opposite number.

No such envy for the mains, though as both more than met our expectations.

I went for the haddock and chips, with mushy peas and tartare sauce.

The fish came from Mersea and was cooked in the pub’s own IPA beer batter no less. When it arrived it was a monster, laying resplendent in all its crisp, golden glory from one corner of the plate to the other.

This was proper fish and chips – the fish was white, moist and succulent, the batter light and tasty.

The husband-to-be was equally in awe at his steak, ale and kidney pie.

It arrived in its own pie dish, with a huge puffed lid of flaky pastry hiding at first the deep rich ale gravy, soaked chunks of beef and kidney that had been slowly stewed to perfection.

Having made a good effort at almost clearing our plates, our jovial waitress offered us the dessert menu.

After a moment’s hesitation we made our selection, chocolate tart and coffee ice cream for me and raspberry Eton mess for him.

The star of this round for me was the ice cream, sweet and creamy, yet with the hit of bitter espresso.

It overshadowed the rather ordinary, but nonetheless pleasant chocolate tart.

The Eton mess, made with home made meringue that was both crisp and chewy, was a hit.

While our waistlines may not forgive us, given what we had eaten the bill caused no such concern for the wallet, so a return trip will surely have to be made.

What we ate Field mushroom stuffed with Boursin cheese and caramelised onion £5.95; Chicken liver parfait £5.95; Fish and chips £9.95; Steak, ale and kidney pie £10.95; Chocolate tart and coffee ice cream £4.95; Raspberry Eton mess £4.95; Total £42.70

Our verdict (Out of 5) Atmosphere 5; Food 5; Decor 5; Value 5; Service 5; Disabled access, Yes.