From the Kursaal, to Luna Park and back to the Kursaal again, Southend’s once grand old lady was many things to many people. Alas, she has now become an architectural zombie.
Unable to be knocked down due to its protected listed status, but with no chance of ever being restored to its former glory, the attraction technically flat-lined decades ago.
It could have looked a lot different, however, if original plans to build a mini Eiffel Tower at the Kursaal had come to fruition.
The Kursaal opened in July of 1901 as one of the world’s first purpose-built amusement parks.
The building was instantly recognised for its distinctive dome, designed by George Campbell Sherrin and for many years “by the dome, it would be known”.
“The Kursaal Palace of 1901 was a large, flat-floored single-balcony music hall and ballroom in the centre of the complex,” explained Southend author and local historian, Marion Pearce.
“The word Kursaal is German, meaning a ‘Cure Hall’ or spa, and it seems to have been adapted to mean a place of healthy amusement. The Kursaal is the principal architectural monument to Southend’s Edwardian boom period.
“This was a remarkable building for the period. It shows the pride and ambition of the town. The Kursaal was the architect Sherrin’s major work outside London.”
Inside the Kursaal building even today remain the tremendous concrete foundations for the tower structure which was supposed to be built shortly after the Kursaal opened.
Elaborate plans were drawn up for the eye-catching tower, which was going to be 330 feet high and would have dominated the Southend skyline.
It seemed like such a sure thing at the time that one of the original names put forward for the Kursaal was “The Eiffel Tower Buildings”.
But, due to a lack of funds, the tower plans were put on hold, before being scrapped for good.
The lack of a tower certainly didn’t stop the success of the Kursaal and it quickly became a major attraction for day trippers, tourists and locals, with hundreds of thousands of people shuffling through the gates each week.
Before the Kursaal even opened its doors, the site on which it stood already operated as an amusement park, known as Marine Park and Gardens.
“The park really started in 1893 when the local father and son partnership of Alfred and Bernard Wiltshire Tolhurst, decided to buy up land at the east end of the town for the creation of a new park, for both residents and trippers,” added Marion, who is the author of a number of local history books including “Milton, Chalkwell and the Crowstone”, published by Essex Hundred publications.
“A small, four acre annexe was to be reserved for amusements, such as a scenic railway and dancing platform. In 1894 the site was opened as the ‘Marine Park and Gardens’.
“The Tolhurst family were influential in Southend. The father, Alfred Tolhurst, ran a solicitors. His son Bernard Wiltshire Tolhurst held the position of Southend mayor from 1896-1897.
“There was variety entertainment with singers, acrobats or comedians at 3.30pm and 8pm. There was also military and orchestral, dancing and cricket matches.
“Appearing on the opening day was Miss Lilly Clifton, comedian, male impersonator and dancer; Fritz Barton, performing on an unsupported perpendicular ladder and Arthur Malvern, ‘comic and facial phenomena’.”
The Kursaal site was purchased in 1910 by the Luna Park and Palace of Amusements and it was renamed for a time as Luna Park.
Marion explained: “But by 1912, Hilton’s company was in the hands of trustees, and new owners took over the site.
“In 1915 American industrialist Clifton Jay Morehouse became the new owner of the park. Morehouse had arrived in London in 1897, settling in Birmingham later.
“He reinstated the park’s original title of the ‘Kursaal’ and converted the circus into a ballroom and ice rink.
“He led the park to become one of the most successful in England at the time, establishing local sporting events and trade exhibitions.
“In 1916 a zoo housing animals from around the world, including bears, tigers and wolves was opened at the four-acre site, however it was closed following the start of World War II.”
CJ Morehouse suddenly died in March 1920. His son David de Forrest Morehouse took over directorship of the Kursaal.
Known for its zoo, thrilling amusements and rides, live music and above all dancing, the Kursaal was a popular hit with young couples who were never happier than when they were waltzing around on the bespoke dance floor in the ballroom.
The ballroom was a supreme feature of the Kursaal, boasting a stage which was larger than any other in London.
The dance floor was expensive (it cost £3,000) and unique.
Only the second of its kind in England the floor was laid on no less than 8,040 carriage springs so that when a large company were dancing the vibration was felt by everyone.
After it closed in 1986 and fell into disrepair, the Kursaal has been the focus on countless attempts to do something with the ailing building husk.
Two years ago the Victorian Society named the Kursaal as one of the top 10 endangered Victorian buildings in the country.
Whatever 2026 brings for the Kursaal, many hope it will see, even in some small part, a resurgence of its once former glamour and greatness.
James Hughes, director of the Victorian Society, said: “Theatrical in every sense, this building has played a major role in the story of Southend, and must play a pivotal part in its future.”
