ARRIVING at one of Leigh’s most renowned restaurants I have to admit I was rather underwhelmed by the brick-surround entrance and the big poster, running along the top of the doorway, boosting cut-price lunch offers.

To be honest, from what I had heard, I was expecting something a little swankier.

Inside, it’s a place that’s clearly trying very hard to be a class act. Piano in textbook position, long-reaching central bar and it must have cost a fortune to decorate.

My wife and I had a drink at the bar before being shown to a window table and I must say, the views are simply superb.

It was great to eat while looking out over that harsh, gritty, yet deceptively romantic estuary backdrop.

So what about the food?

My starter was a crumpet served with a tasty helping of smoked salmon, accompanied by quail eggs and a dill cream dressing.

It was fine, but the portion size wasn’t great. That wasn’t a problem though with my wife’s baked Portobello mushrooms layered with beef tomato and topped with goats cheese.

This was devoured in quick time and won high praise.

The mains arrived in good time and my fillet steak, which came with a delicious mushroom and mustard sauce, was a big, juicy, mound of quality. I ordered it rare medium and it was perfectly cooked – up there with the very best fillets I have tasted.

Mind you, at £21.95 on its lonesome I would have been a little disappointed had it not been top notch. I also had a side order of chips.

My wife went for the steamed sea bass, served with tiger prawns and warmed tomato and red onion salsa. I had a nibble and the fish was really good.

For dessert, there was only room for ice cream. Three scoops of pistachio nut were just the refreshing finale needed to top off an evening which gathered momentum with those first-class views and main courses.

What we ate Mushrooms £8.95 Salmon crumpet £7.95 Fillet steak £21.95 Sea bass £17.95 House fries £3.50 Ice cream £4.95 Our verdict Out of 5 Atmosphere 3; Food 4; Decor 3; Value 3; Service 3.