GETTING up at the crack of dawn to spend hours outside in all weathers may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but for one young man it is the fulfilment of a life-long ambition.

Ever since he first started working on a cockle boat, aged 16, John Labbett dreamed of running his own business on the mud flats and waters he has known since childhood.

In 2003 and aged just 20, John achieved his goal by founding his own oyster farming business based on the River Roach in Paglesham, where he has revived traditional methods to grow top-quality oysters and clams on the centuries-old shellfish lays.

John said: “It’s such a satisfying job, especially on sunny days.

“I love working here and it gives you a great sense of history to be using traditional methods on beds that have been here for hundreds of years.”

Now 25, John manages almost four hectares, the equivalent of ten football piches, of oyster beds with the help of just one employee, Gary Allen.

Every oyster produced is graded and sorted by hand, meaning John can be sure everything the company sells is of the highest standard.

Working the oyster lays is physically demanding work, and without the help of any machinery the hours are long.

John said: “Our work all depends on the tides, but a typical day is usually 16 hours long. All the oysters are graded by hand every month, which means each oyster is handled by me at least six times in its life.”

The oyster lays can only be reached by water, meaning the beds are as free from contaminants and pollution as possible, with monthly quality inspections ensuring high quality produce.

At present John uses a small dinghy to reach the beds each day, but has plans to resurrect another traditional farming method by using a sail boat to drift sail for oysters, meaning even the small outboard motor can be scrapped.

“Drift sailing for oysters using a sail boat is very traditional, and is a real dream of mine,” he said. “It will be fantastic to be able to do it.”

John sells his produce to restaurants and businesses in London, Essex, and as far afield as France. He also does home deliveries which see oysters go from the waters of the Roach to plate in just a few hours.

As well as farming, John is also on a mission to bring oysters to a wider audience. When he visits farmers’ markets he always takes along his cooking pot so he can introduce people to the delights of shellfish.

He said: “I think the best way to eat an oyster is on its own, but if you have to cook them they are great done under the grill.

“Add a splash of white wine, some crushed garlic and a handful of cheese and they are sensational.”

Although he lives in Leigh, John loves working in Paglesham, which has close historical links with the sea, and began life as a fishing village which developed a thriving oyster industry along the banks of the river.

The village sign even incorporates an oyster shell into its design.

John said: “Life revolves around the tides here and it’s great to be close to nature. Every day is just beautiful, and the light on the marshes gives a different picture every day.

He added: “I could never give this up. Whatever else I end up doing in life this will always be mine. It is my absolute passion.”

For more information on the River Roach Oyster Company visit www.riverroachoysterco.co.uk